April 4, 2016 at 8:06 pm #521
I have to preface my questions with the comment that I am reconstructing a 2-beam folding, 10 shaft Ahrens loom that I acquired in pieces. I’m almost there, but still have some minor adjustments to make. None of the pictures show the 2-beam loom with the beater in position. I can’t see any way to adjust the height of the beater on the 2-beam loom, so I assume I must adjust the shafts so that the warp lies on the beater raceway appropriately. I also assume that the warp, in a resting position before starting to weave, should travel perfectly horizontally from warp beam to raceway of beater to cloth beam. Are my assumptions correct? How do you adjust for the build-up of fabric on the cloth beam?
April 6, 2016 at 8:19 pm #565
I’ll answer the last question first. when you fold up the loom you raise the back beam and when you raise the front beam the back beam lowers, right? So adjust by pushing the front beam down as the cloth beam gets bigger.The same principle when the warp beam is fat–lower it by raising the front beam a bit. Jim never expected a huge roll of cloth on the front beam–expected one to cut off the cloth in pieces as you go. So fiddle with the heights by slightly folding or unfolding your loom–raising and lowering the beams. does this make sense?
Re: the shuttle race. When the warp is at rest I can’t be sure if it is perfectly horizontal from beam to beam. I’m not at the studio so I can’t be sure. The principle that Jim taught me was it should be slightly lower in the heddles and that the warp would be in the tops of the heddle eyes. What I do, if it’s too high over the shuttle race, I use the folding feature to get it onto the race–lower the front beam. If the top of the shed is not clean, I then raise the offending shafts. That being said, my shafts were already in place so I never set them at a height in the first place. So, I’m thinking the warp would be horizontal except for a dip at the shafts so it is at the level of the tops of the heddle eyes. I think hang the shafts with enough extra cord for adjusting. Does this help? Let me know if you need more info.
Use Jim’s adjustable knot on the cords to the tops of the shafts–then you can adjust as needed. It’s in the PDF of my book, Warping Your Loom & tying On New Warps. In that book see the chapter on loom geometry and adjusting looms. You can order it from my website and download it.
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